"Thank God for tea! What would the world do without tea? How did it exist? I am glad that I was not born before tea!" - Sydney Smith

"There are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to the ceremony known as afternoon tea." - Henry James, The Portrait of a Lady

It seems that ever since the American colonists dressed up as Indians and dumped all that heavily taxed British tea overboard, coffee has been America's hot beverage of choice. Fortunately, tea is undergoing a major resurgence of popularity in the States. Here in Coronado, tea aficionados need look no further than Encore Cafe and the soon-to-be-opened Crown City Antiques and Tea Parlor.

For engaging in pleasant conversation, creating an oasis of tranquility and savoring delectable goodies, nothing comes close to the exquisite ceremony of afternoon tea. Before you take a teacup tour of the town, let's review the who, what, when, where and why of Coronado's afternoon teas.

What exactly is afternoon tea?
Afternoon tea is not a beverage. It is an experience. It cannot be rushed. Conversation is genteel; there can be no discord or harsh words spoken. Every detail, from the fragrance of the tea to the sinful richness of Devonshire cream to the calming clink of a silver spoon against a china teacup must be noted and savored.

The origins of afternoon tea can be traced to the 1840s when a duchess of Bedford, England got the munchies at four every afternoon and had tea and dainties secretly brought to her boudoir. It has since evolved to the delightful respite and delicious dining opportunity that it is today. In British society there are three types of tea service: cream tea, afternoon tea and high tea. Cream tea is simply scones and cream and tea. Afternoon tea is a more elaborate affair, usually encompassing scones, sweets and savories. High tea is served after 7 p.m. and is more like what we Americans would call supper.

Afternoon tea is served on a threetiered tray. According to tradition, the top tier should be scones, the middle tier, tea sandwiches and the bottom tier, sweets. Tea chefs get quite passionate in their quest for the most crumbly and delectable scone, the crunchiest cucumber sandwich with just a hint of herb-flavored cream cheese, or a chicken curry sandwich with a tantalizingly elusive spice. Recipes are handed down through generations and guarded in the family vault.

Serving portions are dainty. The male segment of the population need not be put off by that word as there is always more than enough food at tea to satisfy even hungry appetites. The tea-tray edibles, adorned with pansies or other such delicate flowers, are to be admired for their color and variety of shapes as well as their intriguing flavors. Some teas offer soup, fruit or even a chocolate fondue alongside the tiered tray.

Tea is served from a pot brought to the table, after being properly steeped. Tea can be either loose (not a reflection on its morals) or in teabags. Traditional black teas like Earl Grey and Irish Breakfast aren't the only choices these days; now green and herbal teas, in flavors ranging from fruity (strawberry, mango) to exotic (vanilla, almond) are offered.

Tea novices may benefit from the advice of tea-etiquette doyenne Ellen Easton: 1) Never cut a scone with a knife. Break off a bite-size piece, place it on your plate and butter it. 2) Never leave your teaspoon in your teacup. 3) Sip, don't slurp. (Easton doesn't comment on whether it is bad form to blow on your tea to cool it, but it probably is) 4) A lemon slice may be allowed to float in the teacup. 5) The best etiquette of all is to relax and have a good time without noticing the faux pas of others.

Where can one enjoy a proper afternoon tea?
Before that question can be answered, you must decide: Are you in the mood for an urban, contemporary tea service or does a dreamy, romantic afternoon tea strike your fancy?

If you're more comfortable in a modern, sleek environment, Encore Cafe is your afternoon haven. Owned by Lamb's Players Theatre which adjoins the cafe, Encore began afternoon tea service last September. Robert Smyth, Director of LPT, was raised in England where afternoon tea is as essential and habit-forming as getting out of bed in the morning. According to Smyth, afternoon tea is 'Act Two' of the cafe's three dining experiences, with lunch as Act One and pretheatre dinner starring in Act Three.

Sherry Evans was recruited to host the tea service, which includes tasting and selecting the teas, developing the menu, creating the recipes, evoking the ambiance and being a hostess to each and every guest at tea. Before accepting the position, she spent part of a summer in New York City. "I sipped tea in a different place every day for three weeks, and no two places were alike. Each had its own personality. I knew then that I wanted Encore to be the 'new era' of afternoon tea?a place where men as well as women feel comfortable, and where young adults, artists, locals and businesspeople would fit right in."

Encore's environment is the opposite of fussy. Teapots in solid colors of gold, green or brown are all the same classic "fat" design which is the most functional for proper pouring. Teacups and saucers are clear glass. You won't find a ruffle in the place, although the tables can go from minimalist to opulent in an instant with the addition of rich gold-andmaroon- striped tablecloths and napkins. The long window seat across the front of the cafe is a favorite spot to sip and watch the world go by.

On the other hand, if classical music and gorgeous Victorian decor inspire you, then you'll want to try the Crown City Antiques and Tea Parlor, scheduled to open this May. Proprietor Nancy Santos' passion for all things Victorian (she and her husband are restoring the stately Victorian home on the corner of C and Third) led to the creation of what she says will be a "feast for the senses."

"Our tea parlor at home is filled with turn-of-the century antiques, crystal chandeliers and lovely teapots that we've collected over the years," Santos says. "We want to recreate this ambience at our new tea parlor on Orange."

Guests can look forward to being surrounded with the fragrance of scones, violin music playing softly in the background and graceful furnishings, all creating an atmosphere of peacefulness.

A priority of Santos' is to provide the finest service possible. "Service is a key element of the afternoon tea experience. Our uniformed waiters and waitresses will be educated in not only how to pour, but also in how to pamper our guests in the tradition of British hospitality."

If you get addicted to the afternoon tea experience, and many people do, then log onto Teamap.com, a directory listing tea meccas across the country. In San Diego County, downtown's Westgate Hotel and Julian's Tea and Cottage Arts are favored by tea aficionados.

When is afternoon tea?
People not in the know would say "in the afternoon, of course." Tea regulars know that afternoon tea is served at times specified by the tearoom, and each seating is usually for two hours. Check with the tearoom hostess to make sure you don't crash someone else's tea party; mosttea parlors recommend reservations.

The real question is: when is one permitted to indulge in the pleasure of afternoon tea? The opportunities for the mid-day repast are as boundless as the imagination, says Santos, who counts among them business and team meetings, birthday parties and romantic interludes. They're also popular for girl-time bonding among mothers and daughters, sisters and best friends. Celebrations of any sort lend themselves to afternoon tea, and bridal showers take on a special gentility set within a tea-room ambience.

Most tearooms change their menu to fit the season, so summer tea can be quite different from winter tea - a good reason to try tea in every season.

Why is afternoon tea so popular?
That can best be answered by experience: Take tea and you will see. Perhaps the easiest explanation is that its calming influence and social conviviality offset the frenzy of our lives today. It's like watching a video that has been on fast-forward suddenly switch to slow motion (and everyone is smiling).

Who drinks tea?
Everyone should drink tea. And with two new tearooms within easy reach on the island, everyone can experience the enjoyment of afternoon tea. It's not just for grannies anymore!

Encore!
1138 Orange Ave., Coronado
(619) 435-2124

Cream teas available on a walk-in basis. Afternoon tea served from 3 to 6 p.m. Tuesdays from 1 p.m.

Sample from menu: Chicken salad finger sandwich with red grapes and pistachios, chocolate fondue with mint meringue, fresh-baked lemon scones, tomato bisque soup.

Champagne and wine also served. Reservations required.

Crown City Antiques and Tea Parlor
(Tentative opening: May 1)
930 Orange Ave., Coronado
(619) 435-4TEA

Seatings begin at 11 a.m. and continue through 5 p.m. Sample from menu: Curried chicken finger sandwiches, fresh-baked banana bread with clotted cream, the finest teas available. Champagne and wine also served. Reservations recommended.

Westgate Hotel
1055 Second Ave.,
Downtown San Diego
(800) 522-1564

Afternoon high tea served daily, 2:30 - 5 p.m, in the main lobby. Tea service includes an assortment of teas, a selection of watercress, salmon, shrimp, spinach and cream cheese sandwiches; homemade scones with Devonshire cream, fresh seasonal berries with Grand Marnier fours. $24, adults; with champagne; $29. $17; children, 12 and under.

Julian Tea and Cottage Arts
2124 Third Street, Julian
(866) 765-0832

Afternoon tea is served daily in the front parlor and porch of this circa-1898 cottage with seatings at noon, 1:30 p.m. and 3 p.m. Tea service for adults includes finger sandwiches, scones, desserts (including the popular house bread pudding), tea and fresh fruit garnish; $14.95. A children's tea service includes turkey or peanut butter sandwich, scones, tea and tea cookies, $7.50.