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Coronado

Vini, Vidi, Vino! • Champagne!

Generally I would be the last person to question the musings of Old Blue Eyes, but how could Frank Sinatra get no kick from champagne? Such a classic, celebratory libation certainly lifts my spirits every time. Lots of things make champagne special — the taste, the toast, the rich history — and even the painstaking process by which it is made. Though this delicious wine is often reserved for special celebrations, why not enjoy it all year round? Every day in Coronado is a celebration!

Champagne first gained world renown because of its association with the anointment of French kings. News of this unique bubbly wine from the Champagne region spread and it became associated with luxury, power and royalty. And since we are the Crown City, how fitting that we can royally enjoy the bubblies served by Coronado’s best restaurants.

Many people mistakenly believe that champagne was discovered by the French monk Dom Perignon. It was actually the English scientist and doctor Christopher Merret who documented the addition of sugar to a finished wine to create the second fermentation that made champagne almost 40 years before the famed monk.

In 1662, Merret presented the Royal Society with a paper detailing this newly discovered viticulture method, now referred to as the methode champenoise. Dom Perignon was, however, responsible for many of the advances in the production of champagne — most notably, for example, holding the cork in place with a wire collar to withstand the pressure of the fermentation. I love his famed quote upon his first sip of the stuff: “Come quickly! I am tasting the stars!”

Most champagne houses will take a selection of still wines from the grapes of more than one area. Once these wines have been assembled, the cellar-master of the house will decide how they should be blended. Then a dose of sugar solution and yeast, known as liqueur de triage, is added to the wine and the bottle is sealed with a tightly fitting cap (they often look like the cap of a beer bottle). As time passes, the yeast ferments the added sugar, creating higher alcohol and carbon dioxide. Because of the tight cap, the gas cannot escape and instead dissolves in the wine, creating those fun little bubbles. At this point, the wine is left for quite some time (years, in fact) and the dead yeast cells (also known as lees) impart richness into the wine. During this time, the wine maker carries out the riddling (also called remuage) process by gradually turning and up-ending the bottle over time so that the lees end up sitting in the neck of the bottle. Upon completion of the riddling process, the neck of the bottle is dipped into freezing brine which creates a frozen plug of wine containing the lees in the neck. The cap is popped and the plus, complete with the lees, flies out. This part of the process is called degorgement. In the last step, the bottle is topped with a dosage of sweetish wine, sealed with a cork, wire capsule and foil, and ends up on your table so you can toast to that birthday, anniversary, graduation, or even just the beautiful sunset.

If you’re looking for a good bottle to toast the summer, I recommend Veuve-Cliquot, Charles Heidsieck, Piper Heidsieck, Roederer, and Moet Chandon. Coronado’s famed French restaurant, Chez Loma, offers several of these and other excellent Champagnes, as well as a yummy selection of sparkling wines. Most of their appetizers pair perfectly with champagne or sparkling wines. My two absolute favorites for pairing with bubbly are the duck liver pate (Pate Du Chef) or the Mediterranean black mussels (Moules Provencales). For entree pairings, try the roast half duck (Canard Roti) or the black tiger shrimp (Crevettes aux Tomates)— the flavor of the goat cheese in this dish will really accent the light flavors of the wine, and any shellfish generally pairs perfectly with a bubbly). And, of course, who can resist champagne and filet mignon? Chez Loma’s preparation of the latter is delightful.

If you want a truly wonderful sipping experience, check out ENO, the chic wine room at the Hotel Del Coronado. They have a huge selection of sparklers (Champagnes can only come from the Champagne region in France, but there are many excellent selections from other regions — called sparkling wines — that you can opt for). Pair one with some of the world’s most exotic (and incredible) cheeses and chocolates served there. Everything about their wine selections and pairings is unique, surprising, and delicious. I especially recommend one of their flights. Their “Tiny Bubbles” flight includes sparklers from France, California, and Austria. The “Frizzante!” flight features two Italian bubblies and, for something fun and different, a sparkling sake from Japan. Keep in mind that on Tuesdays you can sample 10 wines for only $10, and on Fridays you can enjoy glasses of wine for only $5. Also, the Del’s ENO-Versity classes are excellent if you are looking to learn more about wine (or just want to try some new stuff!). Call (619) 522-8546 for times and reservations.

Winestyles is another great place to either pop open a bottle of bubbly and enjoy it on the patio or take some home for that special occasion. They’ve got a great selection of sparklers from all over the world, organized in an easy-to-navigate section. Ask owners Patti or Dale to point out their favorites – and then enjoy a glass while you people-watch on Orange Avenue and snack on imported olives and cheeses. They also sell a myriad of fun champagne and sparkling wine accessories so you can sip in style.

Coronado’s newest restaurant, Vigilucci’s, is another promising spot to enjoy some bubblies. The new venue is beautiful and welcoming. Patrons can enjoy live piano there every night from 7 to 10 p.m. They serve several excellent Bollinger selections: try the ‘99 vintage Gran Anee or ‘99 vintage brut rose. Both will live up to Perignon's description of the stars. Find yourself in the lap of luxury by pairing either of those (or any other of their wonderful sparklers) with their "Vongole o Ostriche Fresche" (fresh oysters and clams on the half shell) appetizer. Their tuna carpaccio would be another excellent pairing with a bubbly.

You may not be a French king, but cheers to living in the Crown City!

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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