Generally I would be the last person to question the
musings of Old Blue Eyes, but how could Frank Sinatra
get no kick from champagne? Such a classic, celebratory
libation certainly lifts my spirits every time. Lots of
things make champagne special — the taste, the toast,
the rich history — and even the painstaking process by
which it is made. Though this delicious wine is often
reserved for special celebrations, why not enjoy it all year
round? Every day in Coronado is a celebration!
Champagne first gained world renown because of its
association with the anointment of French kings. News
of this unique bubbly wine from the Champagne region
spread and it became associated with luxury, power
and royalty. And since we are the Crown City, how fitting
that we can royally enjoy the bubblies served by
Coronado’s best restaurants.
Many people mistakenly believe that champagne was
discovered by the French monk Dom Perignon. It was
actually the English scientist and doctor Christopher
Merret who documented the addition of sugar to a finished wine to create the second fermentation that made
champagne almost 40 years before the famed monk.
In 1662, Merret presented the Royal Society with
a paper detailing this newly discovered viticulture
method, now referred to as the methode champenoise.
Dom Perignon was, however, responsible for many of
the advances in the production of champagne — most
notably, for example, holding the cork in place with a
wire collar to withstand the pressure of the fermentation.
I love his famed quote upon his first sip of the stuff:
“Come quickly! I am tasting the stars!”
Most champagne houses will take a selection of still
wines from the grapes of more than one area. Once these
wines have been assembled, the cellar-master of the house
will decide how they should be blended. Then a dose of
sugar solution and yeast, known as liqueur de triage, is
added to the wine and the bottle is sealed with a tightly
fitting cap (they often look like the cap of a beer bottle).
As time passes, the yeast ferments the added sugar, creating
higher alcohol and carbon dioxide. Because of the
tight cap, the gas cannot escape and instead dissolves in
the wine, creating those fun little bubbles. At this point,
the wine is left for quite some time (years, in fact) and
the dead yeast cells (also known as lees) impart richness
into the wine. During this time, the wine maker
carries out the riddling (also called remuage) process by
gradually turning and up-ending the bottle over time
so that the lees end up sitting in the neck of the bottle.
Upon completion of the riddling process, the neck of the
bottle is dipped into freezing brine which creates a frozen
plug of wine containing the lees in the neck. The cap
is popped and the plus, complete with the lees, flies out.
This part of the process is called degorgement. In the last
step, the bottle is topped with a dosage of sweetish wine,
sealed with a cork, wire capsule and foil, and ends up on
your table so you can toast to that birthday, anniversary,
graduation, or even just the beautiful sunset.
If you’re looking for a good bottle to toast the summer,
I recommend Veuve-Cliquot, Charles Heidsieck, Piper
Heidsieck, Roederer, and Moet Chandon. Coronado’s
famed French restaurant, Chez Loma, offers several
of these and other excellent Champagnes, as well as a
yummy selection of sparkling wines. Most of their appetizers
pair perfectly with champagne or sparkling wines.
My two absolute favorites for pairing with bubbly are the
duck liver pate (Pate Du Chef) or the Mediterranean black
mussels (Moules Provencales). For entree
pairings, try the roast half duck (Canard
Roti) or the black tiger shrimp (Crevettes
aux Tomates)— the flavor of the goat
cheese in this dish will really accent the
light flavors of the wine, and any shellfish
generally pairs perfectly with a bubbly).
And, of course, who can resist champagne
and filet mignon? Chez Loma’s preparation
of the latter is delightful.
If you want a truly wonderful sipping
experience, check out ENO, the chic
wine room at the Hotel Del Coronado. They have a huge selection of sparklers
(Champagnes can only come from the
Champagne region in France, but there
are many excellent selections from other
regions — called sparkling wines — that
you can opt for). Pair one with some of
the world’s most exotic (and incredible)
cheeses and chocolates served there.
Everything about their wine selections
and pairings is unique, surprising, and
delicious. I especially recommend one
of their flights. Their “Tiny Bubbles”
flight includes sparklers from France, California, and Austria. The “Frizzante!” flight features
two Italian bubblies and, for something fun and different,
a sparkling sake from Japan.
Keep in mind that on Tuesdays you can sample 10
wines for only $10, and on Fridays you can enjoy glasses
of wine for only $5. Also, the Del’s ENO-Versity classes
are excellent if you are looking to learn more about wine
(or just want to try some new stuff!). Call (619) 522-8546
for times and reservations.
Winestyles is another great place to either pop open
a bottle of bubbly and enjoy it on the patio or take some
home for that special occasion. They’ve got a great selection
of sparklers from all over the world, organized in
an easy-to-navigate section. Ask owners Patti or Dale to
point out their favorites – and then enjoy a glass while
you people-watch on Orange Avenue and snack on
imported olives and cheeses. They also sell a myriad of
fun champagne and sparkling wine accessories so you can sip in style.
Coronado’s newest restaurant, Vigilucci’s, is another
promising spot
to enjoy some bubblies. The new venue
is beautiful and welcoming. Patrons can enjoy live
piano there every night from 7 to 10 p.m. They serve several excellent Bollinger selections: try the ‘99 vintage
Gran Anee or ‘99 vintage brut rose. Both will live up to Perignon's description of the stars. Find yourself in the lap of luxury by pairing either of those (or any other of their wonderful sparklers) with their "Vongole o Ostriche Fresche" (fresh oysters and clams on the half shell) appetizer. Their tuna carpaccio would be another excellent pairing with a bubbly.
You may not be a French king, but cheers to living in the Crown City!
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